Why i choose to avoid retinol
Retinol has become the panacea of anti-aging. It seems like every dermatologist, skin care brand and beauty editor advocates the benefits of retinol. Six years ago, I nearly jumped on the Retinol train too. But a deeper dive into the benefits and potential side effects stopped me in my tracks. Let me bring you on my journey to deciding to avoid Retinol.
WHAT IS RETINOL?
Retinol (also called tretinoin, retinyl palmitate) is a Vitamin A metabolite. It alters genetic expression to accelerate cellular turnover and increase collagen production. By doing so it reduces fine lines and wrinkles.
That sounds great right?
It certainly does. But there are also precautions or “potential” risks/side effects. These are:
It has been linked to Photosensitivity, cancerous tumour formation and reproductive toxicity.
Skin sensitivity
Skin Barrier degradation
Dermatologists, beauty brands, beauty editors and retinol devotees will focus on the word “Linked”. In other words “not conclusively proven to cause” . Many will also say that Clean beauty brands are simply using fear-mongering to promote their clean alternative. For argument's sake, let’s say they are right. Let’s say there is not sufficient evidence to PROVE that Retinol can cause cancerous tumour formation and reproductive toxicity (although personally, even a slightest chance is reason enough to avoid it!). Then we are left with the evidence that Retinol causes skin sensitivity and Skin barrier degradation.
SKIN BARRIER DEGRADATION
The skin barrier, or stratum corneum, is the outer layer of the skin and it serves as the primary barrier between the body and the environment. In other words, a healthy skin barrier protects us from pollution and sun damage. Retinol damages the skin’s barrier. So why should you care?
What do we consider to be the signs of aging?
Fine lines and wrinkles
Hyperpigmentation
Loss of collagen
Sagging
Dullness
What CAUSES these signs? Dr. Loretta Ciraldo a prominent dermatologist found that 85% of aging is caused by 4 factors:
Pollution
Light
Climate
Irritants
For the purpose of this blog, I am going to focus on irritants because this is where it gets really interesting.
What are irritants that cause premature aging of skin? The answer is shocking. Ingredients meant to IMPROVE the skin actually CAUSE the aging (by degrading the skin’s barrier). Retinol, which has been shown to damage the skin’s barrier function, leaves the skin more sensitive to exposure to the other three factors which ultimately leads to premature aging! MIND BLOWN!
Now you are probably thinking “But what CAN i do then to reduce signs of aging?”
Enter BAKUCHIOL, a plant derived phytochemical. A study in the British Journal of Dermatology found Bakuchiol is similar to retinol in improving facial wrinkles and pigmentation plus it does not cause photosensitivity, tumours, reproductive toxicity or barrier impairment.
There are more and more companies coming out with Bakuchiol in their products. Personally I have only tried the Beautycounter Countertime collection. At almost 50, my skin looks better than it did in my 30s.
I know so many people swear by Retinol and don’t want to give it up (at any cost) but I ask you this: If there are alternatives that can give you similar results or even better results, why wouldn’t you try them?
References:
https://jessica-defino.medium.com/a-beauty-critical-content-charcuterie-1cbff07fbdd6
https://fashionista.com/2019/10/retinol-problems-dangers-side-effects-alternatives
My favourite retinol free skin care is Beautycounter https://www.beautycounter.com/en-ca/lesleylussier?goto=/product/countertime-collection